Pinatas are a lot of fun at parties and they are an easy way to thank your guests for attending without doing individual treat bags. Unlike individual bags, it doesn't matter if guests cancel at the last minute or arrive unexpectedly, because the treats are simply divided among whoever is present.
Pinatas are also very versatile: you can make them any size and shape you want and the contents are easy to customize to your theme and preferences. You can fill them with your child's favorite candies, opt for healthier options such as fruit snacks and granola bars, or skip the food all together and use small toys, erasers, stickers, etc.
This tutorial is for a triceratops pinata, but you can definitely use the basic techniques to customize it to whatever animal you want. By adding or removing elements, changing the colors, and using your imagination a little, this could easily become a cow or elephant or dog pinata. And remember, the best part about a pinata is the smashing, so don't worry about trying to be perfect.
MATERIALS
- BODY: cardboard box around 12"x10"x8" (30 cm x 25 cm x 20 cm)
- HEAD: cardboard box around 4" cubed (10 cm)
- FRILL, HORNS, TAIL: cardboard pieces
- LEGS: cardboard tube(s)
- white glue
- scissors, exacto knife
- acrylic paint, brush
- 3-4 sheets of tissue paper
- tape
- string
- treats
1. Turn the large box upside down (opening to the bottom). Poke a hole in both sides near the top edge in the center of the edge. Thread approximately 6' (2 m) string through both holes and tie the ends together. This is how your pinata will hang. (I completely forgot to do this until the end and used a long stick to thread the string through the box.)
2. Turn the box over and fill it with treats. Glue the opening shut just enough that it will stay sealed but still be the weakest part of the box (so the treats will fall out). If you want the pinata to be a "pull-type", poke holes in these flaps and add long strings to them before closing the box. Turn the box upside down again, so that the opening you just sealed is now the bottom of the pinata.
3. Cut a piece of cardboard to make a frill approximately the same size as one end of the large box. I had a thick piece of cardboard that was already the right size and a cool shape. You can make yours as simple or elaborate as you want - basically a wavy-edged oval is the shape you're going for. Once you have it cut out, trace the small box onto the frill along the bottom edge and cut out the square.
4. Glue and tape the small box to one end of the large box.
5. Glue the frill to the large box, fitting it around the small box.
6. On a piece of cardboard, measure and mark out six triangles that are 6" (15 cm) long and 2" (5 cm) wide.
Draw a diamond on cardboard approximately 3" (7.5 cm) high by 2" (5 cm) wide.
Cut out all the pieces.
The diamond is the nose horn. Glue/tape it in place with half on the small box and the other half sticking up.
Two large triangles are the eyebrow horns.
Four large triangles are the tail. Glue/tape them together.
7. Cut narrow slots into the frill above the small box for the two large horn triangles to slip in. Glue them in place.
8. Glue/tape the tail to the opposite end.
9. Cut the cardboard tube(s) into four pieces around 4" (10 cm) long.
Glue/tape to the bottom of the large box.
10. Stand the pinata on the legs (tubes).
Allow all the glue to dry thoroughly.
Paint the entire pinata whatever color(s) you want. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly.
11. Cut the tissue paper into long strips that are 2" (5 cm) wide. Snip along one side of the strips approximately 1" (2.5 cm) deep and 3/4" (2 cm) apart. (I used binder clips to hold my strips together and snipped lots at once.)
12. Starting at the bottom of the pinata, glue the uncut side of the strips to the pinata, overlapping as you go.
13. Work your way around the pinata, gluing on strips from bottom to top. You can use different colors for different parts or leave some parts bare. (I left the legs bare for now so that it's easier to store the pinata until I need it, but I might cover them later.) For the frill, start at the outside edge and work your way in. DONE.
When we switched our son from a single bed to a bunk bed, the ladder interfered with the existing bedside table. As someone who would be lost without a place to put my glasses and phone at night, I came up with this simple solution that you can customize to your needs.
I wanted to be able to fit an under-bed storage box partially underneath the bedside table, so I came up with at design that easily attaches one side of the table securely but temporarily to the bed frame while the other side is supported by a leg. The result is a sideways L-shaped table that is very sturdy, but light-weight and easy to remove for cleaning or rearranging furniture.
I build my table out of cardboard, but you could certainly use foam core board or wood. Most of my cardboard was already 1" (2.5 cm) thick, but you could glue together several sheets of cardboard or foam core board to achieve the same strength.
To cover the raw edges of the cardboard, I used a thin layer of white glue and strips of newspaper. You could also use tape, tissue paper, or wrapping paper. I then painted the entire table with acrylic paint and stuck a rectangle of contact paper on the top. You can finish and decorate your table however you want to make it match your decor.
MATERIALS
- board (cardboard, foam core board or wood)
- a way to cut the board (knife, scissors, saw, etc.)
- a way to secure the boards together (glue, screws, etc.)
- ruler, tape measure, pencil
- if using wood, you can use metal L-brackets at both ends of the table top
MEASUREMENTS
- A = width of the space between the outside of the bed rail and where you want the end of the table
- B = width of the bed rail
- C = A + B + the thickness of your board (single layer of cardboard or foam core board)
- D = depth you want to make the table
- E = height from the top edge of the bed rail down on the mattress side (inside) to the board/slats/springs
- F = thickness of your table top board (thick cardboard or foam core board)
- G = E + F
- H = height from the floor up to the top edge of the bed rail
PIECES OF BOARD TO CUT
- TABLE TOP = C x D (thick cardboard or foam core board)
- LEG = H x D (thick cardboard or foam core board)
- INSIDE RAIL BRACKET = G x D (single layer of cardboard or foam core board thick)
*or use 2 metal L-brackets for wood
- OUTSIDE RAIL BRACKET = 1" (2.5 cm) x D (thick cardboard or foam core board)
*or use 2 metal L-brackets for wood
- CORNER SUPPORT = 3" (7.5 cm) x D (thick cardboard or foam core board)
*or use 2 metal L-brackets for wood
ASSEMBLY
1. Attach one end of the table top to the edge of the leg in an L-shape. Attach corner support to inside.
2. Attach inside rail bracket to edge of opposite end of table top.
3. On the underside of the table top, mark B (the width of the bed rail) in several places and connect with a line. Attach the outside rail bracket along this line (leaving space between the two brackets for the bed rail).
4. Decorate as you please.
5. Put the table in place by sliding the bracket edge over the bed rail.
DONE.
Whether you're looking to tie your towels to your bathroom theme or color scheme, want to make a special gift for someone (wedding, house warming, baby, etc.), or simply want your kids to be able to easily identify their towel, sewing on some grosgrain ribbon is an easy and eye-catching way to achieve your goal.
Grosgrain ribbon comes in a variety of widths and almost every color and pattern imaginable, from aquamarine to zaffre, apples to zigzags, and "Avengers" to "Zootopia". It's available at dollar stores, craft stores, big box stores (like Walmart), and online (eBay, etsy, etc.).
Transform your boring towels into sharp-looking accents and tie-together mismatched towels into coordinating sets without spending a tonne of money on new or designer towels.
MATERIALS
- towel and matching thread for the bobbin
- grosgrain ribbon and matching or coordinating thread for the top thread
- sewing machine, notions, scissors, etc.
1. Lay the towel edge on a flat surface that you can pin on. Lots of towels have a band that is shorter/smoother than the fluffy parts, which is the perfect area to sew on the ribbon, but if the towel doesn't have that, you can still sew the ribbon on over a fluffy area (you may need to measure up from the outside edge of the towel to ensure that your ribbon is straight.
2. Cut a piece of ribbon that is the same width as the towel. Position it carefully and pin every few inches/centimeters to keep it in position while you sew. At both ends, tuck approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) of ribbon under itself and pin securely. This keeps the "raw edge" of the ribbon sewn inside the stitching so that it won't fray.
3. If you're sewing on hand towels or face cloths, you can simply sew around the ribbon along the edges and backstitch at both ends. For large towels, it's much easier to sew two separate seams. Sew along one long edge, turn at the end, and sew the edge of the end, making sure to backstitch at the start and finish.
4. Start sewing again at the same start point, this time sewing the edge of the end first, then along the other long edge to the same finish point, making sure to backstitch at the start and finish.
5. Trim your threads. Apply a dot of fabric glue to any spots that you think might fray or come loose, if applicable.
DONE.
#TeamCap #TeamIronman ;)
Whether it's for a party, parade, picnic, or just playing around, these simple but colorful wands are sure to delight the kids. They're fun to make for the kids or with the kids.
Choose team colors, favorite colors, patriotic colors, or whatever catches your fancy.
MATERIALS
- wooden dowels approximately 24" (60 cm) long (or whatever length you prefer)
- acrylic paint, brushes
- ribbon
- glue
- scissors
- other decorations, such as: beads, glitter glue, washi tape, stickers, markers, etc.
- large wooden beads, decorative pencil-top erasers, or other items that will fit on the end of the dowels (optional)
1. If your dowels are too long, cut them to the correct length. Remove any stickers/tags from the dowels.
2. Paint the dowels with whatever color or colors you like. Allow the paint to dry completely.
3. Decide which end of the dowel will be the "top" where the "streamers" will be attached. Cut 5 to 10 pieces of ribbon approximately 12" (30 cm) long. You can make them different lengths. Glue one end of the ribbons to the sides of the dowel near the "top" end, varying the side that you attach them on and the distance from the tip.
Alternatively, you can cut longer ribbons (approximately 24" [30 cm]) and glue/tie the middles of the ribbons to the dowel.
Put a little bit of glue on the loose ends of the ribbons to stop them from fraying. Allow the glue to dry.
4. Decorate the rest of the dowel however you like. You can wrap tape or more ribbon around the "top" to cover where you glue the ends of the ribbons on.
5. Add a painted bead, bow, or other decoration to the "top" of the wand (optional).
DONE. Enjoy watching the kids play with their new wands.
You may never have heard of a home reference binder, but once I explain what it is, I think you'll agree that it's a pretty handy thing to have around. A home reference binder is a place to store all sorts of information pertaining to your home (scroll down for a list of things to add to yours). You can use files or a box, but I really like the convenience of using a binder.
I started our home reference binder as soon as we bought our house, but it's never too late to start one and it's a never-ending project. I keep ours handy, both for referring to and for updating. It's so much easier to grab a page from the binder to take to a store than to go searching for things or try to remember.
MATERIALS
- 2"-3" binder
- hole punch
- clear page protectors
- sturdy cardboard or plastic dividers (you can make your own with the hole punch)
- strong glue (I use GOOP)
- pen, marker, scissors, stapler, tape, glue stick...
ITEMS TO COLLECT (as much as you have or want to include)
- paint chips with your wall colors
- swatches/samples of your flooring, siding, baseboard, etc. (or color photos)
- manuals/warranties/receipts for appliances, furnace, smoke alarms, etc.
- information from your municipality about things like garbage pick-up, bylaws, etc.
- business cards and/or contact information for contractors, plumbers, electricians, suppliers, etc. that you have used or might use
- pamphlets/brochures/printouts that contain pictures or information about home improvement products you have in your home/yard/garage
- color photos of other items around your home/yard/garage that you may want to refer to when you can't actually see them in person
1. Divide your items by area (i.e. basement, main floor, 2nd floor, exterior, yard, garage, etc.). Label your dividers.
2. Decide what order you want things to be in the binder.
3. Glue samples to your heavy dividers. Write details beside them (room names, color, item numbers, etc.). Place them in your binder.
4. Place your other information in page protectors or hole punch the pages.
Write in additional details (purchase/installation date, product numbers, etc.).
Attach smaller to large pages with glue, tape or staples.
Put everything into the right sections of the binder.
5. Keep the binder up to date by removing things you no longer have and adding new information as you add things to your home.
Whether it's for Halloween or just everyday play, a tail is always lots of fun and not difficult to sew. This tail has a belt so it is independent of any other costume/clothing piece. You can adjust the size to fit your kids or even yourself.
MATERIALS
- fabric (I prefer heavier stuff like fleece, denim, etc.)
- thread
- sewing machine, notions
- tape measure, ruler
- marker
- Velcro
- poly-fill stuffing
1. Cut two triangles of fabric that have two 20" (50 cm) long sides and one 8" (20 cm) short side. You can fold your fabric right sides together and use the folded edge as one of the sides.
2. Sew all three sides (fabric right sides together), leaving a 4" (10 cm) gap on one long side to turn the tail later.
3. Measure around your kid's waist and divide that measurement in half to determine how long you need to make your belt pieces. For my 5 year old, I used two 12" (30 cm) long strips. Cut the strips 3" (7.5 cm) wide, fold in half right sides together width-wise (so it's long and narrow), and sew one end and along the long side (makes a tube with one end closed). Turn right sides out. Top stitch around to help the belt lay flat. Sew a 3" (7.5 cm) piece of Velcro to one side of the stitched/closed end. Repeat for the second strip. (I used a different color fabric for the belt but you can use whatever color you want.)
4. This part is a bit tricky. Flatten the short side of the tail (not the pointy end) opposite of the seam, so that the corners become triangles with the seam down the middle. Take the unstitched/open end of one belt strip and tuck it inside the tail and into one of the corner triangles as far as you can. Pin through the triangle to hold the belt strip inside. Draw a line on the tail corner where you can feel the end of belt strip inside. Use the line you made as your guide and sew across the triangle, making sure you sew over the end of the belt inside.
Repeat for the other belt strip, making sure that you have both Velcro sides facing the same way so that they will line up properly once everything is done.
5. Cut the corner triangles off where you drew the guideline earlier.
6. Turn the tail right sides out.
7. Stuff the tail with poly-fill stuffing. The firmer you stuff it, the more the tail will stick out from the wearer's body. Sew the opening closed.
DONE!
Have fun playing dinosaur, dragon, Gekko, lizard, monster...
Whether it's for you or your kid or your dog, there is never a bad reason to have a super hero cape around, and they are surprisingly easy to make. Older kids can make their own and younger kids can decorate theirs, so it could be a fun party activity. I do HIGHLY RECOMMEND attaching a Velcro closure to the neck, especially for kids and pets, to reduce the risk of choking in the event that the cape becomes hooked on something, but you're welcome to skip that for teens/adults if you don't feel it's necessary.
MATERIALS
- sharp scissors or fabric scissors
- old t-shirt or sweatshirt that is the length you want the cape with a neck opening large enough for the wearer's head to fit through easily (raid the closet or visit a second hand store)
- long ruler or straight edge
- pen or marker that will write on fabric
- Velcro and fabric glue or needle/thread (RECOMMENDED)
- ribbon, iron-on patches, fabric markers, etc. for decorating (optional)
1. Decide whether you want to use the front or back of the shirt as the cape portion. The majority of whichever side you choose will be visible.
2. Turn the shirt inside out and lay it on a table or flat surface with the side you chose for the cape to the top. Smooth the shirt as much as possible, making sure you have it centered.
3. Use the ruler to mark a line from the bottom edge at the very left side up to the left side of the collar where it meets the shoulder seam at the top of the shirt. Repeat for the right side.
4. Cut on these lines, BUT DON'T CUT THE COLLAR.
5. On the opposite side of the shirt, carefully cut around the collar, leaving it attached to the cape portion. You'll be left with the round collar and the cape attached. NOTE: If you think that the collar will be too tight, cut a strip of the t-shirt just below the collar instead, then cut the entire collar off.
6. To attach the Velcro, cut the collar and attach Velcro to both sides of the cut. (Sorry the cape color changes here, the teal one was easier to photograph for these steps.)
7. Decorate as desired. DONE.
